A blanket stitch applique can be one of the
more fun applique applications to do because it is so easy and you actually to have 3 stitches
on this machine. Go to your Row 2, Stitch number 14, 15 and 16. Now you’ll want to stitch
out each of these, just to give you an idea of what kind of look you are after. Sometimes what I’ll do is I’ll put on the
clear foot that came with my machine. Since I don’t know exactly where I am, what I’ll
do is push the “down” button that allows me; let me go ahead and show you. Push the arrow
down two times, one to lower it, and again, pops the foot up a little bit so I can move
the fabric left or right. Then I can position the needle. Now The needle is going to come down on the outside
of the stitch first. I’m going to go ahead and take a stitch and then just go ahead and
see. It’s going to do those [locking 00:53] stitches. What I do is guide the straight
stitches right next to the raw edge of your fabric you are appliqueing. This has two stitches
forward, then one bite in. Stop with your needle in the down position here. There you
go because then it’s ready for turning. As we get around this curve we are going to
want to stop and kind of pivot. About pivoting you want to make sure that your needle is
on the right side of the stitch, not the left. Just take it one more stitch if it’s on the
inside bite, then stop and pivot. I’d rather that you pivot smaller increments than one
big increment because then it will be nice and smooth. Sometimes I am turning almost
every time it takes a stitch in and out. Let’s take a look. I’m going to just arrow
over. I’m going over to stitch number 15. This one’s going to be a heavier stitch, and
it changes location of needle. Let me bring my needle up, let my foot up, bring that over.
See, that’s why you would want to test this out, so you know what you’re in for before
you start off. What it’s going to do is, it’s going to take
two bites in, and then it will go forward, back, forward. This will indicate or make
it look like it’s a lot heavier stitch. Now here’s the trick on this stitch. You need
to make sure you know when you’re pivoting because you don’t want to pivot when it’s
on the backwards swing or on the inward swing because then you’ll really get it out. Here is one thing nice is I’m actually using
the inside of the toe of the foot because it’s just shifted this whole stitch over to
the right side, like right justification, and then I can work my way around there. Let
me show you what we’re actually getting, and then I’ll put it back in for the third version. This is the small one. This is the heavier
one; see how much nicer that is? Now, you can adjust any one of these stitches to be
wider or longer as you wish. Let me just go ahead. Here, I’m going to jump over to this other
side of the heart. Let’s take a look at Stitch number 16. This one is actually usually my
favorite. It is going to bring us back to more the center needle position. It starts
off about 2 millimeters long and 2 millimeters wide. I tend to keep things proportioned,
so if I am going to make the stitch width wider, I am also going to make the stitch
length longer, and I’m going to make it to the same amount. Then I’m going to go ahead and get kind of
the same proportion all the way across. I’m going to do one more change. I’m going to
make it to four and four, so if I’m going around a larger item, I can easily use one
of the wider stitches, but if I had a little, tiny circle, what I’m going to do is pick
something of the smaller proportion so I can get around it easier, and it won’t look any
different, but this will really look nice on the bigger one. See all the differences?
Definitely take some time to play with your blanket stitches and how they align up with
your foot for guiding them around the project. One extra thing if you find yourself not knowing
which direction it’s going and you need to bite the other way, otherwise your fabric
is going to be inside the machine, remember you have the mirror image, which will allow
you to flip over the stitch and change it as needed.