Now it’s time to learn how to get your fabric
hooped just right so you have perfect finished results once you’re done embroidering. The
key is not to stretch your fabric and to always use the right kind of stabilizer. This is
a cotton fabric so I have two layers of tear away stabilizer. What I’ve done is just
kind of rough cut to the size of my hoop that I’m using. I’m going to use a little spray
adhesive. Now notice I am spraying my stabilizer not my fabric; because, it’s not going to
transfer and leave sticky stuff on my fabric. I’m just going to stick one layer together
and I may need a little bit more spray today. There we go. Then I’m going to spray this top layer.
This is that web bond. Notice I’m not worried about getting so much spray on my rotary cutter
mat that I’m working on; because, it has a little bit more of a direct spray. It kind
of like turns it into a post-it note. As we put our fabric on here, there we go and I
kind of smooth it down it sticks. It means that when I pull diagonally, look it doesn’t
stretch my fabric. It means it’s going to definitely help us as we’re trying to get
this into our hoop. When at all possible if your design is going to fit into the smaller
hoop you own, number one your machine is going to come up and say, use this hoop. Number
two you’re going to get better results and not waste stabilizer. Definitely just use the hoop closest to the
design that you’re working with. Next, let’s identify what parts need to be where. The
outside hoop has a bracket on the left side. You need to have that up and that needs to
also have the screw down in the lower right corner. That one is going to go underneath
my fabric. It also has a little arrow right here on the lower part. That is going to match
up with the arrow on the inner part. That arrow is going to point to each other and
then you can also read the number. When all possible get that to be lined up just right. Next what you want to do is you want to open
up this little bracket here and then unscrew the screw, not all the way; because, it will
actually come apart and then you have to put it back together. You might kind of look at
it and see how those little pieces are put in there but it’s really nice; because,
once you get this set all you have to do for fabrics you were repeating the same thickness
and re-hooping over and over, all you have to do is open and close. Since we don’t
have this set for this fabric, we’re going to go ahead and kind of open it all the way
up. Now I have drawn some lines here so let’s
say we actually need to get our hoop properly hooped. Now you have lines here or marks on
the hoop that you can go with and that will make sure that you get this into the center.
What I can do is just kind of pick this up. I’m going to pick up stabilizer and fabric
with them completely lined up with those marks. I’m going to aim to put the top part of
our hoop in first, so it’s going to go up here and then I’m going to kind of set that
down without, let’s see if I’ve got my hoop opened up enough? Yes. Then what I’m
going to do is I’m going to bring this to the edge of the table. I’m going to kind of slide off and I’m
going to pull with my fingers underneath and I’m going to push this down and in. If I
have loosened this enough this should be almost hard to keep it stayed in; because, it’s
almost trying to push it back out. It’s so loose which it actually is. It’s kind
of springing up on my own. Just slide it off to the edge of the table. Pull open that bottom
hoop. Slide it in there. Next go ahead and take the lever and close it. It should be
easy to close. If it’s too hard to close don’t force it. You need to loosen up this
screw a little bit more and then close it. Now we can go ahead and tighten this screw
up. As we tighten it we’re going to have the
hoop tightened on the fabric but not necessarily the fabric pulled tight in the hoop. Does
that make sense? You definitely don’t want to stretch your fabric. What happens if we
stretch it and stitch it? Well, at the end it’s all going to relax and then it doesn’t
look good in the middle. That’s what we want to avoid. That spray adhesive is going
to help a lot with that. Once I’m done I’m going to flip this over. You notice how this
is not all the way flush. I’m going to take my thumbs on the front side, push on that
inner hoop just a little bit so it comes just past flush here, just a little bit. What that’s going to do is I’m going to
eliminate the scratching of the hoop against the bed of my machine. It’s also going to
make these corners just a little bit tighter all the way around. All right now any time
that you sometimes get longer hoops, this part right here is not as tight and that’s
where those clips come in that you have a little box of. Those little small ones. I’m
going to show you how those go on. They’re actually going to, first off you need to find
there’s one side that has a little nub. That nub is going to fit in between these
two little pairs of marks on your plate. They’re going to squeeze the fabric or squeeze
the two hoops together and make it so your fabric does not move on you. After you do
those you can come around. Now we do have this bracket on this side, so if you want
to, you have marks above and below it. Go ahead and slide that in and that will close
it up. All right you can put one more there. You also have room up here and on the sides
to go ahead and do that. That is actually how that’s going to look. Now if this is
a piece of fabric that had some nap to it, I’m going to want to put some water soluble
stabilizer on top and a little spray adhesive on this. It will not dissolve it even though it is
a spray and then I can just stick that so if my design, just really cut it to the size
of the design and then you’re ready. Your hoop is loaded. This is on and then you’re
ready to put it on the machine. I’m going to show you one more thing about hooping.
When you’re done just flip these. They tend to flip everywhere so don’t let them fall
on your floor. They are a little sharp to step on. Ask me how I know? All right, when
you’re done don’t take the hoops and pop them apart. Come down here to your bracket. You’re going
to loosen this and then all you have to do is pull that straight out. It’s nice and
loose. If I had another piece that I was going to use, same fabric, same type of stabilizer
when I pushed that back in all I need to do is push it in and close this up and you rarely
have to do much in the loosening. It’s almost pre-shut for you from here on out on your
second project. Let’s do one other thing. You have a template that you can purchase
that will help you get things lined up. If you find your 260 by 200 template from your
local dealer you can set that right inside. There we go. This will help things get lined
up a little bit easier. When I hoop I tend to not try to hoop right on the center, unless
your design is exactly out to the edges and you will have no fudge room to move it side-to-side,
up or down. I tend to like to see my lines parallel to these red lines a little bit,
so let me just kind of slide that over, keep that in place and then let me get this pushed
down. There we go. Now notice that this hoop template, the vertical black line is off the
center but everything is parallel to the grid which is really what you’re all about here. Now those lines you can do the Frixion Pens.
You can do the water soluble. You can do the wash out. There is if you’re marking on
black fabric, Clover does a wonderful white marking pen so you can actually see the white
marks and not go, gosh I wonder how I’m going to mark on that fabric. Check out what
you have. I usually have a couple of colors. I had to switch to black; because, I noticed
when I drew with the pink you couldn’t see it under these red lights. Have a couple colors,
a couple of different styles depending on what your fabric is. You want to be able to
mark in different ways. Those templates are available also for your
smaller hoop. Templates, hooping takes practice. Don’t get frustrated. The more you do it
the easier it gets.